Fly Patterns

Philosophy 

A well presented fly in the right place first time will take most fish I fish to. The pattern is not that important. Fly size and depth is the most important factor other than presentation.

My flies are very basic, where possible they are 360 degree flies that always swim correctly. They are tied with a lot of material for durability, and are straight forward to tie.

Hooks

I only use 3X heavy, even for dries as the lighter gauge bend. This does not seem to affect my take rate. Any heavy gauge will do.

Kamasan B110                        12, 14

Kamasan B175                        10, 14, 16, 18

Kamasan B200                        10

Colours

I am badly colour blind so can’t really see colour that well. As a consequence I am not pedantic about colour and it does not seem to matter.

Nymphs

Hare and Copper                14 Copper Bead, 16 weighted, 16 unweighted, 16 tungsten

Hook              Kamasan B175

Tail:                 Pheasant

Body:               Hare guard hair from the back, spiky rough stuff

Rib:                  Copper

Tie it rough so it has more action.

14        has no lead but a copper bead, copper works better on browns according to a mate who is a good fisherman, i dont know the difference but go with copper anyway.

16        weighted has four wraps of 0.20 lead

16TB   has a 2mm black tungsten bead

Green Caddis                       12 Tungsten bead, 14 TB, 16 TB 16

This is a very simple fly that is used as a bomb for a two fly rig. It is easy to tie, sinks fast and catches plenty of fish.

Hook              Kamasan B110 (14), B175 (16)

Body:               Caddis Yarn, Danville #61 is what I use but I don’t think it matters much

Rib:                  Copper wire

TB:                  3.5mm

Leech Yarn Caddis             14 tungsten

I tie this fly with left over leech yarn, and it catches a heap of fish as they really like the green colour. This is a bomb for slower or shallower water. The leech yarn traps air and has more surface area than the one made out of caddis yarn so this fly does not sink as fast.

Hook             Kamasan B175

Body             Olive Mohair Leech Yarn

Bead             3.5mm Tungsten

Tie it rough

Epoxy Fly                  16

Hook             Kamasan B175

Body             Black tying thread or 2mm tungsten bead

Glue              UV epoxy

Small amount of tying thread on the middle of the hook shank. Epoxy on top. This is a little fly that sort of represents a snail and little black aquatic insects.

Olive Mohair Leech                      10LS, 10, 10LSTB

Hook            Kamasan B200 

Tail:              Thick Olive Marabou

Body:           Olive Mohair Leech Yarn

Lead:            one layer of 0.20 lead

TB:               3mm Tungsten

Pheasant Tail 16

Hook Kamasan B175

Thread  Black

Tail & Body Pheasant Tail

Rib Copper Wire

I tie this fly with a lot of pheasant tail fibres because i want it to be durable and not catch one fish and lose all its tail. I flatten the barbs because this fly is easily destroyed if forceps are used to remove the fly from the fishes mouth. Other size 16s I do not flatten the barb.

Worm            10, 14

Hook              Kamasan B175

Body             Cabelas Earth Worm Chenille in Medium and Regular

TB                  3.5mm, 2mm, 2.5m

Tied in a variety of lengths but most are the width of the cardboard chenille holder or half that for simplicities sake.

Koura              10LS

Hook                          Kamasan B200

Claws                         Brown Strung Marabou

Body                           Craft Fur Dubbing Brush

Bead                           3.5mm Tungsten

Dries

Deer Hair Caddis                14

Hook              Kamasan B175

Body               Dubbed Hares Fur

Hackle           Grizzly Hackle

Rib                  Copper Wire

Wing              Deer Hair

Standard Elk Hair Caddis using red deer hair as it is free

Colour doesn’t matter much

Improved Kruse Mayfly     14, 16

Hook              Kamasan B175

Tail:                 Deer Hair

Body:               Caddis Yarn

Hackle:            Grizzly very heavily.

This is a great pattern, easy to tie and always floats the right way. It is named after my good mate Mike Kruse who gave my brother some mayflies. When Jack ran out of them he asked for some Mike Kruse Mayflies, but I was skeptical about whether the wings worked or not.

This turned into the Improved Kruse, a very simple mayfly pattern with heavily dressed hackle that represents the wing. It is a similar pattern to the early wingless mayfly patterns.

I don’t think the colour matters too much, it is impressionistic and looks like a small mayfly.

Parachute Improved Kruse                      12, 14

Hook              Kamasan B175

Tail                              Deer hair

Body                            Green floss

Pylon                           White McFlyon

Hackle                         Grizzly

Royal Trude 10, 14

Hook              Kamasan B175

Tail                 Deer Hair

Body               Red Floss & Peacock Herl

Wing              White Calf Tail

Hackle             Brown

Standard Pattern. Tie it thick so it lasts, with lots of everything. I use a Trude rather than Wulff as it is a lot easier and quicker to tie, and doesn’t seem to affect the number of takes.

Coch-y-bondhu        14, 16

Hook              Kamasan B175

Tag                 Silver Tinsel

Body               Peacock Herl

Hackle           Brown

Standard pattern, unweighted, used as a wet and a dry with sinkant.

Love’s Lure   14, 16

Hook              Kamasan B175

Body                Peacock Herl

Wing               Peacock Sword

Madam X                  10, 10LS

Hook              Kamasan B200

Tail                  Deer Hair

Body                Green caddis floss

Head & Wing  Deer Hair

Legs                 Rubber Legs